Renault Scenic Problems -
air conditioning fan failure
See also the generic Scenic
problems page
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Air-con fan
only works in position 4, 1 to 3 are inoperative (all models)
This is a fairly common fault and is down to a faulty resistor pack
next to the fan motor. The resistor pack is relatively cheap, at £50 or
so. Replacing the pack isn't trivial, although reader Barney Owsnett
managed a home-made repair for next to no money at all.
Barney:"Firstly, take out the pollen filter (if fitted) then get upside
down in the passenger footwell and look up into the air chamber. You
will see the resistor pack, but you won't have much of a chance
carrying out the repair. Too get to the little beastie, I had to take
off the top of the dash, as per the Haynes Manuel. Once that's out of
the way, you will seen the left hand air vent tube, it's got a thin
sponge cover. This has to be pulled from the centre console air ducting
and from the left hand air vent. It does come off, it just needs a good
'yank'. Underneath this trunking, you will then see the top of the
resistor pack and you can now undo the little grub screw that holds the
resistor pack onto the air box. Once this is undone you can lift the
resistor pack out and undo the electrical connections, 4 in total, with
one underneath the sponge cover below the dash. The biggest of the 3
connections ia a bit of a funny set up, as you will see a red ribbed
'tab' at one end. This simply pulls away from the main body and as it
does so, it releases the connection. The fuse is easily identified, as
it's the only one there, simply cut off its 'legs' as close to the fuse
as posible, and bend them up at right angles. Using a 5 amp 'Choc
Block' connector, with the plastic cut off, screw one of them (2 small
screws) onto each leg. Now take a new Thermal Fuse and bend its legs at
right angles, you'll probably need to trim them down a bit, and screw
the legs into the empty choc block connector. Once you have replaced
the thermal fuse, it all goes back together in reverse order. Give
yourself a big pat on the back as it's only cost you a few pence. The
fuses are available over the counter at Maplins. Read the thermal fuse
rating from the side of the old fuse before you throw it away, mine was
192c, thats the temperature it blows at. A nice cheap repair."
Patrick Croker:
Having
just completed Barney Owsnett's 'pennies repair' I thought I
should note some clarifications which hopefully will help future users :
1
To remove the dashboard top remove the 3 plastic plugs near the
windscreen airvents and remove the screws. You will need a Torx
screwdriver (T20). On the passenger side nearest the door ease up
the dash (with an initial yank), it is secured by clips. Work
your way across easing up the trim round the electronic clock and
speedo area. The whole thing will lift back and away.
2
The left hand vent tube was easily removed from the centre vent but the
side vent end was tight on and impossible. I wouldn't recommend
this route either as it must potentially be a pig to refit due the
angles and access. The alternative is actually a simple one
: You will still need to disconnect the vent tube from the
centre vent. Then locate the large brass coloured nut and washer
securing the dash in the area of the side speaker Remove
small trim panel at the corner of the dash below the glovebox
(screwdriver eased in at the top to release clip). There is
another brass nut and washer under here. Remove both these nut
and washers, 13mm box spanner recommended. (I also removed the
corresponding nut and washers on the drivers side and dropped the
steering wheel to its lowest position but I am not sure either is
actually necessary). Locate the central dashboard
hanger - this is a metal plate which hangs on a white clip and supports
the centre of the dash unit. Gently compress this clip to slide
the dash forward partially off the clip. You should now be able
to ease/rock the whole dashboard/glove compartment area forward and,
with the air vent tube loose at one end, gain access to the resistor
block. (Tuck a block between dash and door frame to hold
dash out while you work otherwise it will spring back).
3
To remove the resistor pack 'grub screw' (as described on the site) you
will need a 6mm box spanner to reach its hexagonal head. However
you must first remove the big connector with the red tab to gain access
(the article does this after).
4 Thermal
resistor That is indeed spec'd at 192C.
Maplin's part no is RA020W (currently 69p - 2009)
It's also
worth noting that the usual cause of the resistor pack blowing is that water
has got into the fan motor itself (shown below), causing it to
start to seize and then to blow the various parts of the resistor pack.
In turn, the water gets in because the drain hole underneath the top
cowling is blocked (shown below, cleaned up). Keep this drain clear by
taking off the (wipers and) cowling and checking it for debris once a
year. The plastic plug is redundant.

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