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Renault Scenic Problems - air conditioning fan failure

Resistor packSee also the generic Scenic problems page

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Air-con fan only works in position 4, 1 to 3 are inoperative (all models)
This is a fairly common fault and is down to a faulty resistor pack next to the fan motor. The resistor pack is relatively cheap, at 50 or so. Replacing the pack isn't trivial, although reader Barney Owsnett managed a home-made repair for next to no money at all. Barney:"Firstly, take out the pollen filter (if fitted) then get upside down in the passenger footwell and look up into the air chamber. You will see the resistor pack, but you won't have much of a chance carrying out the repair. Too get to the little beastie, I had to take off the top of the dash, as per the Haynes Manuel. Once that's out of the way, you will seen the left hand air vent tube, it's got a thin sponge cover. This has to be pulled from the centre console air ducting and from the left hand air vent. It does come off, it just needs a good 'yank'. Underneath this trunking, you will then see the top of the resistor pack and you can now undo the little grub screw that holds the resistor pack onto the air box. Once this is undone you can lift the resistor pack out and undo the electrical connections, 4 in total, with one underneath the sponge cover below the dash. The biggest of the 3 connections ia a bit of a funny set up, as you will see a red ribbed 'tab' at one end. This simply pulls away from the main body and as it does so, it releases the connection. The fuse is easily identified, as it's the only one there, simply cut off its 'legs' as close to the fuse as posible, and bend them up at right angles. Using a 5 amp 'Choc Block' connector, with the plastic cut off, screw one of them (2 small screws) onto each leg. Now take a new Thermal Fuse and bend its legs at right angles, you'll probably need to trim them down a bit, and screw the legs into the empty choc block connector. Once you have replaced the thermal fuse, it all goes back together in reverse order. Give yourself a big pat on the back as it's only cost you a few pence. The fuses are available over the counter at Maplins. Read the thermal fuse rating from the side of the old fuse before you throw it away, mine was 192c, thats the temperature it blows at. A nice cheap repair."

Patrick Croker:

Having just completed Barney Owsnett's 'pennies repair'  I thought I should note some clarifications which hopefully will help future users :
1    To remove  the dashboard top remove the 3 plastic plugs near the windscreen airvents and remove the screws.  You will need a Torx screwdriver (T20).  On the passenger side nearest the door ease up the dash (with an initial yank), it is secured by clips.  Work your way across easing up the trim round the electronic clock and speedo area.  The whole thing will lift back and away.
2     The left hand vent tube was easily removed from the centre vent but the side vent end was tight on and impossible.  I wouldn't recommend this route either as it must potentially be a pig to refit due the angles and access.  The alternative is actually a simple one :   You will still need to disconnect the vent tube from the centre vent.  Then locate the large brass coloured nut and washer securing the dash in the area of the side speaker   Remove small trim panel at the corner of the dash below the glovebox (screwdriver eased in at the top to release clip).   There is another brass nut and washer under here.  Remove both these nut and washers, 13mm box spanner recommended.  (I also removed the corresponding nut and washers on the drivers side and dropped the steering wheel to its lowest position but I am not sure either is actually necessary).    Locate the central dashboard hanger - this is a metal plate which hangs on a white clip and supports the centre of the dash unit.  Gently compress this clip to slide the dash forward partially off the clip.  You should now be able to ease/rock the whole dashboard/glove compartment area forward and, with the air vent tube loose at one end, gain access to the resistor block.   (Tuck a block between dash and door frame to hold dash out while you work otherwise it will spring back).
3    To remove the resistor pack 'grub screw' (as described on the site) you will need a 6mm box spanner to reach its hexagonal head.  However you must first remove the big connector with the red tab to gain access (the article does this after).
4    Thermal resistor    That is indeed spec'd at 192C.  Maplin's part no is RA020W (currently 69p - 2009)

It's also worth noting that the usual cause of the resistor pack blowing is that water has got into the fan motor itself (shown below), causing it to start to seize and then to blow the various parts of the resistor pack. In turn, the water gets in because the drain hole underneath the top cowling is blocked (shown below, cleaned up). Keep this drain clear by taking off the (wipers and) cowling and checking it for debris once a year. The plastic plug is redundant.

Motor assembly Drainage point (plastic plug removed)

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